Tuesday, June 6, 2017

These boots were made for walking

Join shoe historian, Cameron Kippen discuss the history of Boots – from Cavemen to Cowboys on “Remember When” (6PR) with Harvey Deegan.

Friday, June 2, 2017

Boots :Roman Boots

The military boots were hobnailed and according to rank worn high on the leg. The boot was initially restricted to the higher ranks (on horseback) and used as protection from arrows and glancing blows. According to Pattison and Cawthorne (1997) boots became more popular with soldiers posted to colder climes and when victorious soldiers returned to Rome, they would have their copper hobnails removed and replaced with gold or silver tacks. Julius Caesar was reputed to have worn a pair of boots made from gold. Eventually boots were worn by citizens.

At first patricians wore muleas, which were red or violet coloured boots but these were reserved for patricians who had served as magistrates. Some authors believe the muleas has been confused with calceus patricius, a style of shoe worn by Roman senators. Citizens of Romans wore a boot made from hairy undressed hide similar to those worn by agricultural workers. The calceus was a boot developed at the end of the Roman period and was worn high laced on the inside of the leg and fitted with a tongue. Many boot forms arose from the calceus. The muleus was similar to calceus, but laced with red coloured thongs and only worn by emperors. The gallicae was a knee high closed boot and the espadrille was a boot with straps laced through eyelets and thought to be a more sophisticated version of the Greek crepida.

The calceus senatorum was a calf length boot worn by members of the senate. The boot was slit on the inside and fitted with a tongue and were generally black until the late empire when they were white with complex lacing. (Anderson Black J Garland M 1975). The boot generally had gold or silver crescents at the front. The letter "C" was embossed and referred to the first 100 patricians or nobles established by right of birth or privilege. These boots or bushkins extended to the knee and were fastened with four tags or knots. Plebeians and vulgar people could wear boots but they were restricted to the use of one or two knots.

Anderson-Black J. Garland M. 1975 A history of fashion London: Orbis Publishing.
Pattison A & Cawthorne N 1997 A century of shoes: icons of style in the 20th century NSW : Universal International

Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Boots: From Pre-History to Antiquity

According to Broby-Johansen (1986) the oldest boots in the world come from a clay impression originating in ancient Syria and cave paintings in Spain depicting a man in boots of skin and a woman in fur boots. These were dated between to 12,000 and 15,000 BCE.

More recently Persian jars in the shape of boots were dated to around 3000 BCE. A Rhyton were more usually used as a drinking vessel but this possibly for human remains i.e funerary jars. Boots were also found in the tomb of Khnumhotep (2140-1785 BCE) in Egypt. All this would suggest boots were a style of ancient footwear found in and around the Mediterranean.

The ancient Mesopotamians wore boots made from kid leather with laced closures and according to Bigelow (1970) men and women of Crete (between 3000-1400 BCE) wore calf high boots tied to their legs with thongs. The boot had a strip of leather against the anterior aspect of the leg and was secured below the knee with a band of leather and the top of the foot was covered.

Later the Cretans wore a puttee (bandages) of coloured leather wrapped around the foot and leg with a thick sole. Hunting leggings were worn just below the knee.

In ancient Greece, soldiers wore high boots and they fitted to the leg and foot snugly and in some cases with the toes left exposed. The boots were laced up the front of the leg ending at the top of the calf. In Greek mythology the Amazons (a nation of all female warriors) also wore boots like men whilst most women in Greece went barefoot.

Mycenaean men (1600 – 1100 BCE) wore decorated calf length boots of pliable leather. By 5 BCE young Greek men wore white boots made of stretched material pulled up to the top of the calf and decorated with turned over tops in blue and green. The toe section was often highly decorated.

The Etruscans (1200- 550 BCE) were skilful tanners and made boots from animal skins and hides. A characteristic of their high and low boots was the curved toe. Historians believe this was caused by the way the boots were laced as the excess upper was towards the ankle. The boots were sturdy and covered the foot and lower leg. The section that covered the foot and the back of the leg was laced together with leather thongs.

Etruscan priests wore boots whilst warriors went barefoot. To protect their shins in battle they had leather or metal greaves. Soldiers wore fur lined rawhide boots with slashed foreparts and some were coloured and had embroidered cuffs. Leg bandings, in bound puttee fashion, were also worn and rose above the ankles.

Bigelow MS 1970 Fashion in history apparel in the western world Minneapolis: Burgess Publishing Co
Broby-Johansen R 1968 Body and clothes: an illustrated history of costume London: Faber and Faber

Reviewed 20/02/2016